‘Stay home. Stay safe.’ is the tagline for 2021. Undoubtedly, the safest place right now is our home. However, I cannot help but think of another safe place—atent. Call me a dreamer, but this is the home that I look forward to going to soon.
A tent is a home.
Kedartal trek
It is not nylon, polyester and canvas against bricks, stones and cement. A tent offers a roof where no house can stand.
Mt. Thalaysagar: the peak in the center Morning view: Thalaysagar peak
It reminds me of snuggling in a sleeping bag in the freezing Himalayan nights of June. I know how cold crawls under layers of clothing if you sleep near the entrance of a cloth tent that is laced shut. I have heard the gush of winds, howl of snowstorms, foot-stomping of wild horses, snarls of animals and even cries of a helpless one outside my tent.
A tent may look nothing luxurious, but at 16,000ft, it could be the home that keeps you alive.
En route, SarPass trekNagaru camp, 12,500ft, SarPass trekIf you did not notice how clouds changed the landscape, scroll up and then down again.
Multifunctional! Use it as You Like
A tent could be a kitchen where two cooks prepare mattar paneer and rava halwa.
It could be a dining area—lit with head torches on a scary night under a heavy thunderstorm—alive, warm and a witness to a game of Antakshari.
It could even be a toilet with a tissue role hanging by a thin strip and a fly-infested pit for morning business.
Dreamy snowfall at Kedarkharak camp, 14,009ft, Kedartal trekRiver Arkavathi from Bilwa Fishing Hut, Savandurga, KarnatakaThe Savandurga peak from the other side of the Arkavathi river
Impressive, From the Door to the Décor
Youth Hostel Association of India (YHAI) Base camp, Kasol, Himachal PradeshBhandak Thatch camp, 8000ft, SarPass trek
Your backpack is your pillow and the sleeping bag a cocoon to get packed into. Only your eyes stay uncovered—exposed to excessive lucid dreaming, something that you cannot avoid at 12,000ft or more—like you are awake every minute, thinking of sleep.
Kedartal trek
Your alarm clock is your leader screaming at the imaginary porch, beating his hand against the canvas. Your bloated tummy gives you the right motivation to get out of the sleeping bag, though it is nothing less that a Herculean task with little sleep from the previous night.
Right before a snowstorm, Kedartal
Its doors, when unzipped, offer a stunning view of mountains or land ending in a deep ditch. A sudden brightness and your eyes squint for a second. Step out, and you touch grass, snow, maybe muck or puddles if it rained the previous night.
Morning view, Gandikota Gandikota, the Grand Canyon of India
Come night, and you get a splendid view of the Milky Way or maybe the moon shining in its full glory—it catches you breathless.
Beskari camp, 11,000ft, SarPass trek
As a traveller with a mountain to climb, a river to cross, a bridge to pass, a grassland to see, some snow to slide on and a journey to finish, I am just a temporary tenant of a tent, and it is a privilege to live in one.
“For the first time, I realized why our ancestors prayed to a burning ball of gas, and I did the same, religiously.”
19th May, 2019
The white snow ended at the blue sky. One wrong step, I knew, would throw me several meters down into the gorge on my left. I am a Capricorn, and the mountain goat in me refused to accept my quivering confidence as I strode up.
Kedartal Lake, Surface Elevation: 5000 meters. the pristine lake of Shiva waited patiently somewhere in an unforeseen world.
Mountains are a no man’s land—a kingdom of rocks and snow, created to never be won over but invoke awe and reverence, more so at Gangotri.
Gangotri temple right before the evening Aarti
Gangotri in Uttarakhand is one of the CharDhams ( 4 prominent pilgrimage sites in India) from where the trek to Kedartal trek begins.
Note: Kedartal, Himalayan trek Trek in Uttarakhand Booking done via Bikat Adventures 6 months before the trek. Cost: 13,700INR + Tax = 15,500INR
Day 1:Bangalore toDehradun
Fortunately, I got a direct flight from Bangalore to Dehradun. I availed the local cab service that is present right before the airport exit. For Ola services, you have to walk out of the airport area, which I didn’t prefer doing with all my luggage; they don’t let them in.
I stayed atQueen’s Pearl Inn hotel near ISBT (Inter State Bus Terminal), Dehradun. The manager, Mr Anup and his staff were quite hospitable. I extended my stay when my family visited me after the trek. You can contact him directly at 9131865691. Our Bikat team was to meet at ISBT, Dehradun, the next day, but it got delayed by more than an hour.
Day 2: Dehradun to Gangotri: An 8+2-hour Long Ordeal
En route Gangotri
A mountain jeep will take you from 1467 ft to 11200 ft in a single day through the most precarious hairpin turns you would have ever seen.* Be quick to change from shorts and shirts to pullovers and pajamas; else the evening cold will freeze you into stuttering every syllable.
Cramps, nausea, fatigue, and chills—if you don’t experience any of these, congratulations on being a superhuman.
Our driver got into a heated argument as we enjoyed the view
Highway traffic on these precarious paths: something to look forward to
Temperature starts to drop quickly as you ascend
It was dark when we reached Gangotri. We waited for our Bikat crew to escort us or inform us about our stay for about half an hour. When it got uncomfortably cold, we started walking towards the market to save our lives. Amidst the hustle and confusion, and after a few phone calls, we wandered through the market to finally reached our hotel. I quickly realized that ours was an all-male group.
It wasn’t a pleasant experience to arrive at the hotel and not even receive a cup of tea or an acknowledgment. We were shown our rooms by a cold hotel manager who informed us that we would have to buy the food when we asked for something warm. A hard and uncomfortable handshake with the then Bikat supervisor made me doubt my decision to go solo for the trek.
Note: Bikat doesn’t take the responsibility of food until you start climbing up the mountain
Bonus: Neither do they intimate you about the last ATM on the way. Please read the terms and conditions carefully. I didn’t and realized I was in trouble—didn’t have enough cash. The nearest one is in Harsil (25km from Gangotri).
Hotel Rooms: I won myself a separate room after blasting the hotel staff when he asked me to share a place with one of the male trekkers. The room was basic, comfortable and cosy.
People recommended Kirti Lok, affordable with good food and amazing balcony view
Don’t judge my photography skills: I devoured the veg maggie after coming back from the trek
Forgot the name – If the restaurant looks like this, refrain from entering. Girls strictly avoid it,especialy at night Source: Dreamstime
Restaurants At Gangotri: Packed with people, pickles, and perverts, staff at Restaurant 1 (don’t remember the name, above is the image) show unnecessary interest in you if you are a female. I tried Kirti Lok Restaurant, which was decent, comparatively cheaper, offered good food and great view of river Bhagirathi.
View from Gangotri temple
Way to the Gangotri Ghat
People were taking a holy dip in the bone-chilling water of Bhagirathi river at Gangotri Ghat
In the refreshing morning light, the atmosphere of this place no less than enchanting. Gangotri is set in the lap of rugged mountains, intertwined beautifully with divinity; all I could do was stand and stare in awe as the world went bustling around me. There were so many ways to absorb it all in, each angle, every direction put the place in a new perspective.
Shops at Gangotri laden with ornaments, copper vessels, brass idols of gods and goddesses and things used in Hindu religious ceremonies
Note: Gangotri has a small corner shop for trekking essentials including pullovers and raincoats, near the bridge that leads to the other side of the ghat. However, the stock is limited and you may not get the right size or color. You may ask the locals for directions.
Day 3: Acclimatization and Acquaintance
We hiked to a cave dwelling of a local saint
The cave is slit under a massive rock
Inside the cave dwelling: we felt we were being intrusive and left immediately after
As a part of the acclimatization walk, we trekked uphill somewhere near Gangotri. I let a sigh of relief when I came to know that one of the trek leaders was a female. After a brief intro with the leaders, we shared some trek stories and experiences. We stopped at a point to discuss the do’s and don’ts, then move ahead to explore the area.
Surya Kund at Gangotri dham
The massive, powerful waterfall cut through the chiseled, cheese-like rocks; found that cute and appetizing for no reason..yum yum..
The evening aarti at the Gangotri temple was a remarkable sight to experience as people gathered in hordes to witness it. We sang together and offered our reverence to the river Ganga, which is known by the name Bhagirathi here.
Gangotri temple
View from the Ghat in the evening
Later that evening, I offered my last prayers to the Mountain Gods before the great Himalayan trek. It was quiet, there was no soul around, not even the person in the picture—only the rush of the river gave me company. I let the fear of unpredictability spill out right then, uncontrollably and drowned it in the river. After that, I felt nothing in my head but my body was full of vigor and zeal—had the trek begun then, I would have been prepared to climb the mountains.
Day 4: Trek or Treat
It wasn’t as easy as it looks here: the initial ascent was tough and we panted our way up to this clearing
One the left: a deep Gorge with Kedar Ganga streaming down
The ascent is steep; you are breathing hard, sweat trickling down your spine, the raging Kedar Ganga on your left, sourced from Kedartal keeps you company. The narrow trail through the tall and sturdy pine trees show you the way. The gorge on your left and the mountain wall that you walk on leave no scope for getting lost.
The sun was at its best yet it felt comfortable wearing two layers of clothes
Kedartal lake, Himalayan trek
Our trek leader was fast and brutal when it came to breaks. At few precarious places, infamously known as spider walls (like the one below), he dug the way through the snow (yes, we saw it on the very first day) for us to place our feet affirm. Walking on an incline snow sheet with just enough space to put our feet was by far the trickiest part of the trek.
Walking on the spider wall
Our trek leader camouflaged against the rocks
Yet another spider wall ahead; I had lost the count by then
I had my heart in my mouth watching the porters carry our food and tents while crossing the precarious spider walls. Not as equipped with the gear as we were, these superhumans showed unfathomable strength and endurance. I hoped and prayed for their safety at every tricky turn or climb that we came across.
It was incredible of porters to cross these spider walls with all that weight on their heads and shoulders
Camp 1: Bhoj Kharak We arrived in time, just before it started snowing. Unfortunately, our crew (the people carrying tents and kitchen stuff) were nowhere to be seen. It started snowing and there was no place to take shelter. We heard they started late and went on a different route. It was getting colder with each passing second as the mountain winds howled around us. Our trek leader managed to get some tea from other campers that had set up their tents at the same place.
I left all my fears and worries behind. In that instance, I had only one goal in life, to get a glimpse of Kedartal, bow my head in front of the pristine Thalaysagar and come back safe.
Our first campsite: Bhoj Kharak; The green tent belonged to another group of trekkers, ours were the dark green tents behind theirs
The beautiful gorge going all the way to Gangotri
We were cold and famished, but managed well with our packed lunch of aloo and roti. While some of us cursed and watched, the rest danced in the snow until the tent material was there. We rushed to help the crew pitch tents in the snow-wind-storm. The tea and soup were like a reward for coming that far; the dinner was a feast of butter paneer.
Welcoming the first snowfall with open arms
Day 5: Stumped by the Snow Mountains
We had lost the count of the treacherous spider walls—we found one every 200 meters. The vegetation was gone, the air was chilly, but the sun shone like a divine power over us. For the first time, I realized why our ancestors prayed to a burning ball of gas, and I did the same, religiously.
Our second-in-command and my tent mate. Damn, I forgot everybody’s names
Twinning because the sun was harsh on our eyes and skin up there
Then, at some point, Thalaysagar came into view. The gigantic, snow-laden mountain, the kind that would give you the feel of an explorer out in the wilderness, the one you would call ‘the holy mountain’, the stunningly, hostile mountain you think people would have died climbing (maybe they did), the God mountain, the Thalaiva of mountains, the Thalaysagar. I can’t forget that moment when I saw its peak light up under the first rays of the sun.
When I saw the glowing Thalaysagar for the first time, I left all my fears and worries behind. In that instance, I had only one goal in life, to get a glimpse of Kedartal, bow my head in front of the pristine Thalaysagar and come back safe.
Up next: – Know how I escaped a rolling stone half the size of my head – How I Almost lost my feet to hypothermia and my breath to mountain sickness
Manzil nayi hai anjaana hai kaarvaan Chalna akele hai yahan
— Shaan
“The destination is new and the journey is unknown
In the end, have to walk here alone”
The singer, Shaan had brought out the essence of life that I hadn’t really understood until my first solo travel. Even when the destination is decided, the journey is planned, nothing can prepare you for the unforeseen.
It was intimidating at first—the thought of travelling alone—but I had to get over my fear and experience solo travel. With nobody but google to guide me, I planned my itinerary, booked my hotel and tickets and set off on my most awaited journey.
Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu
Being a fan of wall art, this piece was a treat to my eyes
Close to the border of the state of Tamil Nadu, in the Indian plateau is the small town of Coimbatore. Be prepared to cause some raised eyebrows if you tell someone that you are visiting Coimbatore but not Isha Foundation.
On the auspicious occasion of Ganesh Chaturthi
Established by Sadhguru in 1992, Isha Foundation is one of the most well-known Yoga Centres in the world. If you haven’t heard about the mystic and maverick who is a Shiva devotee and loves riding dirt bikes and playing golf, here is the link. Oh and he is also the enlightened one!
Sadhguru’s advice for the youth of the country, his simplistic and easy-to-understand explanations for the complexities of life was what, like many others, drove me to visit Isha foundation.
About Isha Foundation and How to Reach There
About 29Km away from Coimbatore at the Velliangara foothills, Semmedu, a chiselled idol of Adiyogi rests in deep meditation. The 112.4ft matt black statue of Shiva spreads a mystical aura across the vast landscape that is surrounded by the majestic hills on three sides.
Close to the small temple on the stairs at the base of the idol, Sadhguru can be heard repeatedly chanting prayers on speakers. His voice will follow you across the campus.
About 200m away, a huge sandstone entrance with serpent carvings welcomes you to the huge, serene campus of the Isha Yoga foundation.
If you’re on a day’s visit you can’t take your phones and cameras beyond this point
Coimbatore to Isha Foundation
A local bus leaves for Isha foundation from Gandhipuram bus stand, Coimbatore every hour throughout the day. An hour-long road journey takes you across a number of villages before taking a sharp left through a canopy of trees that opens at Isha. Book a hotel close to Gandhipuram bus stand, if you plan to stay in Coimbatore.
Note: You could also book a cab, Ola service is available in Coimbatore.
How To Reach Coimbatore
Coimbatore corporation bus station, Mettupalayam road
By road: Coimbatore is well connected to other cities by road—363Km from Bangalore, 380Km from Trivandrum, 190Km from Cochin and 505Km from Chennai. I took a bus from Bangalore, Majestic Bus Stand to Coimbatore Corporation bus stand.
Through the lanes of Coimbatore
By air: Coimbatore International airport, which makes the Isha very much accessible, is about 15Km from the city.
By train: Coimbatore Junction is the main railway station and is well connected to other cities.
The calmness and serenity of Isha absorbs you and makes you a part of itself. Honestly, the positive and pure aura that I felt in the campus intimidated me. I constantly felt the need to stay for longer and longer as I left my world behind.
Isha has arranged for a bullock cart service from the gate to the Adiyogi idol.
After you deposit your belongings, including the phone and camera (except the wallet) at the entrance, enter the Suryakund (for males) to have a refreshing dip into the holy waters—that apparently synchronize your energy and purify you before you enter the main sanctum.
An equivalent of Suryakund is Chandrakund, which is for women and is present in the inner sections of the campus after one passes the temple of Kaal Bhairavi (opens at 4pm).
Restaurant near the Isha entrance
Note: You’ll be charged a mere 20 Indian Rupees to enter the kund. The attire to be worn is provided by the staff.
Dhayanalinga. Credits: Isha Foundation
The entrance to the Dhyanalinga opens into a meditative space where a huge consecrated Shivalinga emanates a distinctive energy and inspires awe with its sheer presence. A very disciplined routine allows you to enter and exit the space on the sound of a gong. However, you can sit there in silence for as long as you want.
I stayed at a hotel in Coimbatore and visited Isha by bus every morning for two days during my trip. Nope, I did not meet Sadhguru, but I interacted with a 17-year old wise kid whose peacefulness piqued my interest. We had an hour long chat about life outside and at Isha while peeling jujuve seeds, and I was left wondering whether I would ever want to live like that given a chance.
Udhagamandalam akaOoty
Ooty is a dreamland nestled in the Nilgiri hills. Be prepared to be smitten by silent evenings, splendid green landscapes, tea gardens and towering Cypresses in Ooty, which is around 2 hours 30 minutes drive from Coimbatore.
How to Reach Ooty from Coimbatore
One can either relish the 5 hours long Toy Train ride from Mettupalayam to Ooty or take a direct bus from Gandhipuram bus stand, Coimbatore and reach there by road. The nearest airport is Coimbatore International airport.
I did the former and boarded a bus to Mettupalayam bus stand which is at a walking distance from the station. The Nilgiris Toy Train is scheduled to depart from Mettupalayam station at 7:30 am (ours was late by 45 minutes).
Our Engine arrived in style and gloryThe huffing and puffing marked the beginning of this exciting journeyOur TT (Travelling Ticket Examiner) made people sing and dance as a punishment for travelling without the ticket. Amongst them were a newly-married couple. The wife was asked to sit in her husband’s lap and she happily obliged. 😀
Note: Mettupalayam bus stand is at a walkable distance from the station and if you start early from Coimbatore, you can easily catch the morning train. This train journey is an experience that you mustn’t miss.
Note: Book your tickets in advance. The general coach gets quite crowded and uncomfortable for such a long train journey. Grab the window seat on the left in the direction of the train and enjoy the breathtaking view of Nilgiri hills blanketed by rich greenery.
View from the Toy Train On the insideOn the outside
Note: Don’t forget to buy breakfast from the only restaurant at the Mettupalayam station and across the journey—they offer hot idli vada and steaming hot pongal that you can challenge yourself to eat in the rumbling, congested train.
Note: Tall people alert. In the general compartment, there is no leg space for you to stretch your legs.
Those who wish to visit Coonoor can get down one station before Ooty
A time crunch allowed me to visit only three places in Ooty—Ooty lake, Doddebetta peak, and the Tea Garden.
Ooty Lake
No more than 2Km away from the Udagamandalam (Ooty) railway station, Ooty lake is where families can go for boating or picnic. Being picturesque and easily accessible, this place does become crowded in the evenings.
A small market at the entrance is were you can shop for souvenirs and goodies to take back home.
Doddebetta Peak
The highest mountain in the Nilgiris, it lies at 2637 metres. I remembered taking a wrong bus to reach the starting point, which was in a reserved forest.
Unknown to the fact that you can’t be on foot in a National Park, I continued walking up the pukka road only to be stopped by the guard. I didn’t want to turn back so I took lift from a passerby, who happened to be a family.
A bumpy ride aheadThis house doesn’t have a telescope
Driver: Are you carrying a knife? I want to confirm because I am travelling with family.
Me: I am travelling solo and I am not carrying a knife. (‘Would a murderer answer the same?; I thought)
The 15-minute silent drive to the peak is extremely bumpy. When I reached the parking, I couldn’t believe the sheer number of cars that were scavenging for space. The way to the peak is a stepway through a market. If not anything, you will find carrots being sold like they grew there—oh so many!
Being Shahrukh
The peak is a viewpoint that offers a stunning view of the valley below. It is impossible to take a photo without being photobombed indeliberately—it’s a popular tourist destination.
Note: The bus numbers and sign boards are in Tamil. If you don’t know the language, check with the locals—they are quite helpful.
Ooty’s main bus stand
Unable to get a lift, I walked my way back through the jungle and got a ride meters away from the starting point.
The Tea Garden
Gateway to Heaven
For the tea lover I am, I had to visit here. A few meters of a scenic walk from the Doddabetta road took me to the tea garden. The green gardens were pleasing, the roads wet and clean, and the hills welcomingly beautiful—I just didn’t want to stop walking.
My kind of DrugTo the Boulevard of brimming dreams
It’s a quiet and tiny tea garden. One can eat and nap in the gentle cold breeze under the tall green deodars and forget the world.
Dil Garden Garden HogyaThe dilapidated and disappointing tea factory model
The local tea that I tried—because, well, drinking tea in a tea garden is amusing— was a disappointment. May be the shopkeeper didn’t prepare it well but I missed my mom’s tea immediately after the first sip.
The Garden of Greed.. 😛
Note: The buses from the Doddabetta base back to the Ooty city are less frequent and often too crowded. Plan to come back well before it gets dark.
Other Attractions in Ooty
Splendid Views of tea gardens
If you have some more time at hand, you can visit these few places in Ooty:
Keep your phone charged before you leave the hotel; carry a powerbank if needed.
Plan your itinerary in such a way that you reach back to hotel in time.
Always carry a knife or pepper spray and some extra cash in your bag
Carry plenty of water and some snacks for the way.
Interact with the locals but make sure to NOT give them any details about your stay or travel.
Google Maps are deceiving, don’t hesitate to ask for directions and details.
Your luggage, your responsibility. Period.
East only freshly cooked food. Medication should be carried under all circumstances.
I won’t deny that I did miss having a company especially in Ooty. However, it was also quite liberating to pave my own way and travel as it pleased me.
Between Places and Time 