Visiting A Sea Coast In Cyclone: When Cyclone Okhi Struck Varkala

While cyclone Ockhi hit the Western coast of India and created a havoc at the sea and in the coastal towns, I packed my bag in a dilemma whether to risk the weather or stay put on the safer part of the land.

Visiting Varkala, Kerela before the end of 2017 was one of my resolutions and unexpectedly, the cyclone Okhi gave a hard hit to my plans.

When my friend from Kerela warned me about the deteriorating weather conditions in the Arabian sea, I started tracking the cyclone hour-by-hour, fidgeting in my office chair.

Close to the Arabian sea, people in parts of Kerela, Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka were coping with gusty winds and incessant rains that were causing serious damage to the trees and property.

Many fishermen were stuck in the storm, struggling amid the ruffling waves. Search and rescue operations were in full-swing to find those who unfortunately hadn’t returned from the sea in time.

The schools were closed, many roads were blocked by fallen, uprooted trees. Some areas didn’t have electricity for days at a stretch.

The news headlines had already declared a red alert, and here I was in Bangalore, biting my nails in anxiety yet planning my visit to this small dot on the Western side of Indian coastline — Varkala.

Varkala

A coastal town in south Kerela with a beachline that is guarded by steep and lofty cliffs made of sedimentary rocks from the Cenozoic era (as old as 65 million years ago).

The Geological Survey of India has named this grand stretch as Varkala Formation and considered it as a Geological Monument. Isn’t that cool!

A resident to tourist ratio of 3:1 approves of its popularity among the visitors who come here to experience the diverse culture, piquant cuisines including lip-smacking seafood and of course the scenic and serene sun-kissed beaches.

A day before leaving, I called up at our hotel and asked about the conditions. There was no electricity, the winds were rough, and it had been raining ever now and then, but it wasn’t as bad yet to cancel the trip.

And the Journey Began

It drizzled the whole day in Bangalore. I knew we had already entered the storm when it rained cats and dogs the entire night of our journey — in these grey times, we could only be happy that our bus reservation didn’t get cancelled.

We had boarded a KSRTC (Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation) bus from Bangalore to Thiruvananthapuram (formerly Trivandrum).

From Thiruvananthapuram Central, we planned to take a local train to Varkala.

Day 1

Next morning, the weather was surprisingly pleasant — it was drizzling. The sun had finally torn through the mesh of clouds when we reached the Thiruvananthapuram Central railway station.

The railway station is at a walkable distance from the last drop point of the KSRTC bus.

The station is clean and also has a waiting area where you can get fresh or take bath. The cops are helpful — they were guiding people including foreigners when our train to Varkala got late by an hour.

Note: The local trains are congested in India. Be mindful when you enter a general coach. Even if you have a ticket for sleeper coach, you are still made to oblige and shift to make space for one more.

We boarded the general coach and, being females were offered a seat almost immediately.

After 2 hours, we got down at Varkala station and took an auto for Helipad or North Cliff.

Note: Offer to give no more than 60 Indian Rupees to the auto driver.

The Helipad on the North Cliff is a viewing point and one of the ways to reach the Varkala beach. A little walk ahead to your right will lead you to the cliff and an alley of restaurants that Varkala is popular for. It is a 2-kilometre long stretch that runs parallel to the cliff — which eventually declines to beach-sidewalks, only to rise up again at a farther distance.

We encountered a dramatic change in the weather on reaching the helipad — quite an unwelcoming show set up by the sea. What followed next was a wild combination of rain and wind, which made us wonder whether we had made a huge mistake.

This time we sought the refuge of a nearby cafe and also had our first and heartiest breakfast at Varkala.

Had the situation worsened, there were more people around us in the Coffee Temple cafe — we were relieved to realize we wouldn’t be alone in such a case.

 

 

 

 

 

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Walking through the North Cliff was no less than getting hypnotized by the material world in continuous succession.

With one side giving away to the mesmerizing sea view and the other grabbing our attention with rows of good-smelling restaurants, artefacts, clothes and jewellery shops — we were unable to absorb the novelty all at once.

Stay at Varkala: Mother’s Palace

It is best to get your booking done in advance. We had booked Hotel Mother Palace, which offered a decent stay at an affordable price.

PC: HolidayIQ

Vedanta dormitories present across Karnataka, Kerela and Tamil Nadu is another cheap option to stay, although they have common dormitories for males and females — we were two girls, so we decided against it.

 

 

 

 

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The owner/caretaker at the Mother’s palace is a generous guy. There was a group of boys staying next to our Non-AC room on the first floor. So, when we requested him, he gave us an AC room on the second floor at the same price, provided we didn’t use the air conditioner.

When we stepped out, the sun was shining on us and the streets were buzzing with people. We headed straight to the beach only to find it deserted. The sea was evidently rough and the coast guards and police officials roamed around whistling and asking people not to venture into the water — they didn’t even let is touch a wave that now seemed to mock us from a distance.

Nevertheless, we stayed there until lunchtime and bore witness to the rough sea. Find my Instagram video for Varkala beach.

At sunset, when the sea, surprisingly, appeared calmer, tourists finally came out on the beach to enjoy the sunset. The pleasant sea breeze marked the end of cyclone Okhi that was now moving Northward, towards Mumbai.

Varkala is a beauty to behold at sunset.

Everyone seemed to celebrate the receding of the cyclone and stayed on the beach till late in the evening. People were cheerful, couples had their perfect sunset moments, children frolicked in the shallow waters, I lost my silver ring into the sea only to find it back on the shore after 15 minutes — the nature seemed to be in harmony with the mankind once again.

Varkala came alive at night and we just couldn’t get enough of the sea.

Sunshine welcomed us the next day — there was no trace of the storm. People were out sunbathing, and before we could join them we had a sumptuous breakfast at this blink-and-you-miss-it cafe hidden near the parking.

Wheat Puttu – A combination of wheat and coconut served with warm milk, bananas, and honey

The sun was out and shinning following the recede of  Cyclone Okhi

There is more to Varkala than its popular, sunstruck beach. We walked passed the residential areas, crossed the Varkala Aquarium, Black beach, and finished our journey at Kappil beach.

This space is too short to describe it all; I will leave that for other time.

How to Reach Varkala By Bus, Train And Flight

Varkala By Bus

By road, Varkala is connected to all major bus stations. Various government and private buses ply to Trivandrum from where you can take a bus or train to Varkala. Refer to the KSRTC website (Karnataka State Road Transportation Corporation) to book tickets if you are travelling from Karnataka. KSRTC (Kerela State Road Transport Corporation) is another site to refer to. You could also board local buses, which take 45 minutes to an hour to reach Kerela.

Varkala By Train

Varkala has its own railways station of the same name (Varkala Sivagiri) which is about 3 kilometres from the beach. Being a small junction, few trains from other states stop at Varkala. Local trains are available with the closest major junction at Trivandrum.

List of trains from Bangalore to Varkala, Pune To Varkala, Chennai to Varkala.

Varkala By Flight

The nearest airport to Varkala is Trivandrum International Airport at a distance of around 50 kilometres. The remaining distance can be covered either by train or bus.

Waking Up At The Sea Coast: Bangalore To Udupi

Under the 12 o’clock Sun of April in a tropical country on a deserted rocky seashore sat a girl under the blue umbrella.

She stared at the sea and the noises that it made — it sounded like the jets that flew over her in the city. She couldn’t spot the source of the sound; all she knew was that it came from the sea.

The water level rose and washed away the mountains that she had made out of the sand.

15 more minutes passed away.

A car stopped on the road next to the shore, 2 people — young, blond, a boy and a girl jumped out of the vehicle and started racing towards the sea. Speed that matched their excitement levels brought them closer to the endless water body, then broke into a wide leap and a splash.

I looked at my friend. He keenly watched me and said, “Go!”

“But, I have to attend my colleague’s wedding. I have to be there in next 1 hour!”

“I know you want to go and play, so go!”

I closed the umbrella, took off my flip-flops and ran towards the sea.

. . . Pause the Time at Kodi Bengre

Kodi Bengre will always remind me of a silent stretch of beach, embellished by the side-lined rocks, randomly placed in such a fashion that resting against them feels like sitting on a throne of your own.

The google map shows this place as a picturesque point where the backwaters meet the sea. When you take the narrow, snake-like road to reach there you will find few clustered houses at the dead end — with rocks placed at the edge as a wall, protecting them against the sea.

Hence, they say don’t rely on google maps.

Kodi Bengre and Delta point are a part of the same stretch of coast — clean, serene and highly tranquillizing if you know how to get high on the sea.

Udupi had called me back and I had decided that I would return with a little more this time.

Know more about Udupi and how to reach there.

The Road by the Sea

While beach hopping in and around Udupi, there will be ample times when you might find yourself on a thin stretch of road — one side of which puts to display the restless sea and the other side looks out at the silent backwaters.

Trust me when I say the sea will lure you several times as you pass that road — the waves splashing against the rocky shore send the water several feet high in the air. The breeze then throws these tiny showers at your face, enchanting you with the magic of the sea.

The Hanging Bridge that Links the World

Google took us through a long maze of tall coconut trees where only a white cemented road kept us from getting lost. We could have ridden endlessly had someone not stopped us from going any further.

I halted the two-wheeler on an incline with a jerk like any unskilled rider, turned it around without starting the engine and left it to my friend after being scornfully elucidated on how to apply brakes.

The already-incline hanging bride shook under my heavy footstep. Only the colour green pleased my eyes, even the water below was green.

The other side welcomed us with more coconut trees. I lied down to look up and get high on my once-in-a-long-time thoughtless mind.

A dhoti-clad uncle passed by me, then a few kids, later 2 burqa-clad aunties followed by some Japanese tourists and a cool guy who played the guitar — the world passed by me and I didn’t budge.

The Toddy, the Boat and a Noisy Family to Spoil It All

Under the retiring 5 o’clock Sun, on a Sunday evening atop a slender wooden boat at the slow-moving backwaters sat two travellers and a family that talked about crocodiles and sharks.

It all started when an uncle gave us toddy (local natural alcohol) that was extremely diluted — claiming that it was a special one just for us. It smelled pathetic so we believed him and filled our 1-litre bottle to the brim.

The next moment we hopped onto a boat. Unluckily, a family with 2-3 kids got on board as well.

And the boat rowed as we precariously balanced between being mindful and mindlessness.

Why the Lighthouse Beaconed Us to Return

The Kaup beach laid bare to the incoming waves. The lighthouse clad in black-white jailer costume braved the sea breeze. And, I stared wide-eyed at the fluorescent gibbous moon while floating a foot above the ground.

Under the 6 o’clock sun, next to the 100 feet tall lighthouse under the orange skies on the shallow backwater stream, floated two travellers.

No images available because we had closed our eyes and let our bodies drift with the current.

The evening Sun splashed colours across the sky, the lighthouse started its late-night shift as the humongous lenses began rotating, cautioning the ships at the other end of the world.

The time halted, the people disappeared, the noise cut down — my ears submerged in the water, my breath clearly audible, my mind open to nothingness.

Lost but alive. Stagnant yet present. Calm yet clear. I lived.

 

5 Reasons to Drive 500 Kilometers: Bangalore to Udupi and Murudeshwar

 

“If you feel disappointed that something didn’t happen as expected, don’t worry, there is always something better waiting for you ahead.”

The trip to Udupi and Murudeshwar came out as the last minute plan B when our trek to Naramsimha Parvatha (Western Ghats, Karnataka) got cancelled due to seemingly improbable reasons—we swear, the trek wouldn’t have been as much fun.

Where Is Udupi?

If every beach is compared to ambered beads, the coastline of India is like dangling necklace.

Udupi is one of the pearls shining on the southwestern edge of the Indian subcontinent.

If you are familiar with Goa, Udupi lies in the state of Karnataka around 300 kilometres (6 hours drive) southward from the popular tourist spot.

Bangalore To Udupi Distance

There are 2 routes to reach Udupi from Bangalore—the shortest being a 406-kilometre drive which takes approximately 8 hours. Practically, a total of 9 hours if you stop for food and rest.

Udupi is a pilgrimage site—one out of the seven pious ‘Muktisatalas‘ of Karnataka. Lined across its shore are minor ports at the estuaries of small and lesser-known rivers like Udyavara and Sita that empty their waters into the Arabian Sea.

Bangalore To Udupi NH 75 – Saturday, 12 am

We hit the National Highway NH75 or popularly known as Tumkur road at around midnight and were out of Bangalore by 1:55 am, speeding at 140 kilometres/hour.

The route that we took was Bangalore -> Hassan -> Belur-> Charmadi -> Ujire -> Belthangady -> Karkala -> Udupi.

4 AM

I would better call the route our race circuit because we zoomed past these locations. We took a diversion on the State Highway (SH 57) to continue on Belur road.

While driving through the deserted streets of an unknown town that looked ghostly under the dead silence of the night, we steered slowly, blindly trusting the off-the-road shortcuts that Google Maps persuaded us to take.

Our high-spirited travel songs from Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara to Dil Chahta Hai hummed down to tune with the tales of the paranormal. In the sheer darkness, with only our headlights to guide us, the NH after crossing Belur led us through a thick forest cover with undulating roads and sharp turns.

With barely any vehicles passing by us, we sped through the roads like there was no tomorrow. We found a speeding car that had earlier overtaken us to have driven through the bushes at one side of the road at the next turn. Though the driver seemed to be fine in one glance, we dared not stop at such a location to help the sole person inside the car.

Note: The NH73 (Karnataka) has no street lights over a long stretch. Small villages like Attigere, Charmadi, Kakkinje fall on the way, separated by strips of dense vegetation (more like a jungle) and uninhabited areas. Avoid passing through this area in the dead of the night.

At 9 in the morning, we passed through Karkala. In between, we found the cleanest public toilet ever on a highway and exploited it very well before commencing our journey. As we struggled to keep our eyes open, it was best considered to halt for a while and take a short nap.

The morning drive was pleasant with welcoming greenery and cool air pacing along. Before reaching Udupi, we stopped at a local restaurant to have a heart breakfast of ghee masala dosa.

1. Visit Kaup Beach With Lighthouse

Udupi To Kapu Beach

Kaup or Kapu (in Tulu language) beach is 16 Kilometers (18 minutes) south of Udupi—follow a straight route on NH 66 and it will take you to this calm and scarcely crowded beach.

The Kaup beach lighthouse timings are 5pm to 6pm—it offers a panoramic view of the captivating scenic landscape around.

We reached there at around noon and the sun felt quite hot even for the month of November. The lighthouse on this beach seemed to be dressed in black and white jailer costume.

Read about: My visit to Vizhinjam Lighthouse In Kovalam, Kerela

At one corner of the beach, the boulders and rocks form a cluster that leads to a huge rock-hill, on top of which the lighthouse stands towering over the land. Once you climb the stairs to reach the lighthouse, you will discover that the viewpoint next to the lighthouse offers a Ummm…. a fantastic lover’s spot.

Prepare to get uncomfortable and embarrassed as young couples get cosy in close vicinity. Alternatively, look ahead towards the sea to catch the glimpse of Humpback dolphins if you are lucky, we were!

If you are facing the sea, still searching for dolphin fins, turn to your right you will see the beach continues to stretch as far as the eyes can see. Colourful boats of fishermen wait for their sailors in the bright sunlight.

Just when you turn around with your back facing the sea, you will find a small stream of water emerging stealthily from the coconut groves—a tiny version of a backwater, I must tell you. It is a shallow flow of water you can dabble in once you get down from the lighthouse and cross over to reach the stream.

Refresh yourself at the shops and shacks near the entrance—they offer cold drinks, water, and snacks. Sit silently on the benches close by and watch the ruffling sea in sheer retrospection.

2. Watch Sunset At Marwanthe Beach

The Marwanthe beach is where you can witness the wrath the sea causes on the land in the monsoon season. The waves hit past the rocks present adjacent to the road to prevent the sea water from reaching it.

Running parallel to the coastline is NH66. As the road converges towards the sea, you will find stunning view similar to Marine Drive in Mumbai. You will realize you are driving parallel to the beach.

If you happen to visit Marwanthe beach in the non-monsoon months, be there at sunset.

Get out of your car, pass over these rocks and reach the slanting shoreline receding into the sea. Swimming could be dangerous here although the farther ends of the beach might be safe to go inside the waters.

Watch the sun extinguish into the sea—right when it is bright yellow, then, turns to lurid shades of red and orange. Finally, it fades into the horizon, leaving behind a sky that is still painted in the vibrant colours along the trail of the sun.

Sunsets at the sea brew inexplicable humane emotions and the Marwanthe beach is where you must stop to see it.

3. Be At the Famous Murudeshwar Temple

Murudeshwar is at a distance of 102 kilometres or around 2 hours from Udupi.

Murudeshwar Temple

 

 

A 20-storeyed Gopuram marks the entrance of Murudeshwar temple

 

 

Extensively and intricately carved, Gopurams are monumental gateways through the walls that surround the temple.

 

We started at 6 pm from Marwanthe beach towards Murudeshwar—it is a 50-kilometre drive from Marwanthe.

Note: Due to the lack of rides and construction going on on the highway, this drive is a risky affair. Avoid nighttime and prefer the daytime or early morning to drive.

The temple closes at around 8:30 pm but you can still directly go to the statue of Shiva, which has a separate entrance.

 

The magnificent statue of Shiva visible from the huge wooden doors of the Gopuram

 

The place holds the world’s second tallest idol of Lord Shiva, which is an amazing 123-feet in height—the tallest Shiva idol is in Nepal.

You will get a glimpse of the idol right from the parking space. After reaching the entrance climb up the stairs and you will see the divine sitting in Lotus pose, engrossed into a deep meditation.

4. Spend A Night Near Panchgangavali River

We stayed at Blue Waters—a luxurious resort overlooking the calm and smooth flowing Panchgangavali river.

Panchagangavali is another river that empties its water into the Arabian sea. Though the river doesn’t appear to be very clean, the fishermen and birds of prey lurked close to the river for their daily catch.

 

Jaunt along the kaccha road adjacent to the hotel that runs parallel to the river and you could catch the raw stink of the fish meat in the air.

White cranes and vibrant kingfishers wait patiently perched on wooden poles that stood in the middle of the river. A sense of calm draws over you when you spend the early morning under the shades of coconut trees.

Blue Waters is in Kundapura district, around 38 kilometres from Udupi. The resort has air-conditioned rooms, swimming pool, rich, comfortable rooms with good service. It is worth a day’s stay if you visiting with family.

5. Take A Ferry From Malpe Beach To St Mary’s Island

Malpe is yet another beach to indulge in water sports—banana ride, speed boat, motor boat—you name it they have it. Enjoy the Bollywood music playing in the background while dabbling in the calm sea water that might not stand up to your expectation of clean sea water.

If you are done with being a part of the horde that visits the beach in evenings, hop onto the nearest ferry and reach St Mary’s Island at a hefty 500 Indian Rupees.

St Mary’s Island is beauteous, clean, scarcely crowded and known for its distinctive columnar rocks.

Climb over the tricky and gigantic rock hills to sit peacefully atop one of them and admire the profound and unbounded sea. Alternatively, walk around and explore the whole island.

On the side, directly opposite to where our boat dropped us, we found pieces of shells instead of sand covering a greater part of the beach.

Don’t forget to rejuvenate yourself with the fresh coconut water and let it drench your clothes (no straws available because humans create a mess. Being there will leave you mesmerised so much so that you may not want to go back to the mainland.

Depressions And Tensions On The Mangalore-Bangalore Highway

The infamous Mangalore-Bangalore highway (NH75) is a dwelling for potholes—you are sure to jar throughout the 15 kilometres stretch. Don’t take this route at night unless you want to invite undue trouble—rash driving bus drivers, no street lights, serpentine roads and turns, unpleasant potholes,  narrow way—experience it all here.

The precarious highway that it is the drive might give you a pain in your knees while shifting frequently between the break and accelerator.

 

A Stinking yet vibrant boat Garage that we found on our way

 

 

Malpe port

 

 

At the bank of Panchgangavali River