A Tenant of a Tent

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‘Stay home. Stay safe.’ is the tagline for 2021. Undoubtedly, the safest place right now is our home. However, I cannot help but think of another safe place—a tent. Call me a dreamer, but this is the home that I look forward to going to soon.

A tent is a home.

Kedartal trek

It is not nylon, polyester and canvas against bricks, stones and cement. A tent offers a roof where no house can stand.

Mt. Thalaysagar: the peak in the center
Morning view: Thalaysagar peak

It reminds me of snuggling in a sleeping bag in the freezing Himalayan nights of June. I know how cold crawls under layers of clothing if you sleep near the entrance of a cloth tent that is laced shut. I have heard the gush of winds, howl of snowstorms, foot-stomping of wild horses, snarls of animals and even cries of a helpless one outside my tent.

A tent may look nothing luxurious, but at 16,000ft, it could be the home that keeps you alive.

En route, SarPass trek
Nagaru camp, 12,500ft, SarPass trek
If you did not notice how clouds changed the landscape, scroll up and then down again.

Multifunctional! Use it as You Like

  • A tent could be a kitchen where two cooks prepare mattar paneer and rava halwa.
  • It could be a dining area—lit with head torches on a scary night under a heavy thunderstorm—alive, warm and a witness to a game of Antakshari.
  • It could even be a toilet with a tissue role hanging by a thin strip and a fly-infested pit for morning business.
Dreamy snowfall at Kedarkharak camp, 14,009ft, Kedartal trek
River Arkavathi from Bilwa Fishing Hut, Savandurga, Karnataka
The Savandurga peak from the other side of the Arkavathi river


Impressive, From the Door to the Décor

Youth Hostel Association of India (YHAI) Base camp, Kasol, Himachal Pradesh
Bhandak Thatch camp, 8000ft, SarPass trek

Your backpack is your pillow and the sleeping bag a cocoon to get packed into. Only your eyes stay uncovered—exposed to excessive lucid dreaming, something that you cannot avoid at 12,000ft or more—like you are awake every minute, thinking of sleep.

Kedartal trek

Your alarm clock is your leader screaming at the imaginary porch, beating his hand against the canvas. Your bloated tummy gives you the right motivation to get out of the sleeping bag, though it is nothing less that a Herculean task with little sleep from the previous night.

Right before a snowstorm, Kedartal

Its doors, when unzipped, offer a stunning view of mountains or land ending in a deep ditch. A sudden brightness and your eyes squint for a second. Step out, and you touch grass, snow, maybe muck or puddles if it rained the previous night.

Morning view, Gandikota
Gandikota, the Grand Canyon of India

Come night, and you get a splendid view of the Milky Way or maybe the moon shining in its full glory—it catches you breathless.

Beskari camp, 11,000ft, SarPass trek


As a traveller with a mountain to climb, a river to cross, a bridge to pass, a grassland to see, some snow to slide on and a journey to finish, I am just a temporary tenant of a tent, and it is a privilege to live in one.

Why Not To Venture Out At Night When Trekking In Mountains

Let me answer that with a story.

11pm

8000ft, Bhandak Thatch Camp, Parvati Valley

The rain beat hard against the canvas sheet. The thunder cracked and roared as if tearing the sky into pieces. The lightning dazzled the night into day. Amid the bitter cold and incessant downpour, I prayed for this last night to pass safely.

When I was on the brink of sleep, I heard a growl. I could almost picture glaring white canines, and sense them close to my side of the tent.

The sturdy bamboo stick rested next to me, ready to turn into a weapon on my command. Do I really have the courage to pick it up? I wondered.

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Waking Up At The Sea Coast: Bangalore To Udupi

Under the 12 o’clock Sun of April in a tropical country on a deserted rocky seashore sat a girl under the blue umbrella.

She stared at the sea and the noises that it made — it sounded like the jets that flew over her in the city. She couldn’t spot the source of the sound; all she knew was that it came from the sea.

Udupi-blue umbrella

The water level rose and washed away the mountains that she had made out of the sand.

15 more minutes passed away.

A car stopped on the road next to the shore, 2 people — young, blond, a boy and a girl jumped out of the vehicle and started racing towards the sea. Speed that matched their excitement levels brought them closer to the endless water body, then broke into a wide leap and a splash.

I looked at my friend. He keenly watched me and said, “Go!”

“But, I have to attend my colleague’s wedding. I have to be there in next 1 hour!”

“I know you want to go and play, so go!”

I closed the umbrella, took off my flip-flops and ran towards the sea.

. . . Pause the Time at Kodi Bengre

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Kodi Bengre will always remind me of a silent stretch of beach, embellished by the side-lined rocks, randomly placed in such a fashion that resting against them feels like sitting on a throne of your own.

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The google map shows this place as a picturesque point where the backwaters meet the sea. When you take the narrow, snake-like road to reach there you will find few clustered houses at the dead end — with rocks placed at the edge as a wall, protecting them against the sea.

Hence, they say don’t rely on google maps.

Kodi Bengre2

Kodi Bengre and Delta point are a part of the same stretch of coast — clean, serene and highly tranquillizing if you know how to get high on the sea.

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Udupi had called me back and I had decided that I would return with a little more this time.

Know more about Udupi and how to reach there.

The Road by the Sea

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While beach hopping in and around Udupi, there will be ample times when you might find yourself on a thin stretch of road — one side of which puts to display the restless sea and the other side looks out at the silent backwaters.

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Trust me when I say the sea will lure you several times as you pass that road — the waves splashing against the rocky shore send the water several feet high in the air. The breeze then throws these tiny showers at your face, enchanting you with the magic of the sea.

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The Hanging Bridge that Links the World

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Google took us through a long maze of tall coconut trees where only a white cemented road kept us from getting lost. We could have ridden endlessly had someone not stopped us from going any further.

I halted the two-wheeler on an incline with a jerk like any unskilled rider, turned it around without starting the engine and left it to my friend after being scornfully elucidated on how to apply brakes.

The already-incline hanging bride shook under my heavy footstep. Only the colour green pleased my eyes, even the water below was green.

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The other side welcomed us with more coconut trees. I lied down to look up and get high on my once-in-a-long-time thoughtless mind.

A dhoti-clad uncle passed by me, then a few kids, later 2 burqa-clad aunties followed by some Japanese tourists and a cool guy who played the guitar — the world passed by me and I didn’t budge.

hanging bridge

The Toddy, the Boat and a Noisy Family to Spoil It All

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Under the retiring 5 o’clock Sun, on a Sunday evening atop a slender wooden boat at the slow-moving backwaters sat two travellers and a family that talked about crocodiles and sharks.

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It all started when an uncle gave us toddy (local natural alcohol) that was extremely diluted — claiming that it was a special one just for us. It smelled pathetic so we believed him and filled our 1-litre bottle to the brim.

The next moment we hopped onto a boat. Unluckily, a family with 2-3 kids got on board as well.

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And the boat rowed as we precariously balanced between being mindful and mindlessness.

Why the Lighthouse Beaconed Us to Return

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The Kaup beach laid bare to the incoming waves. The lighthouse clad in black-white jailer costume braved the sea breeze. And, I stared wide-eyed at the fluorescent gibbous moon while floating a foot above the ground.

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Under the 6 o’clock sun, next to the 100 feet tall lighthouse under the orange skies on the shallow backwater stream, floated two travellers.

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No images available because we had closed our eyes and let our bodies drift with the current.

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The evening Sun splashed colours across the sky, the lighthouse started its late-night shift as the humongous lenses began rotating, cautioning the ships at the other end of the world.

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The time halted, the people disappeared, the noise cut down — my ears submerged in the water, my breath clearly audible, my mind open to nothingness.

Lost but alive. Stagnant yet present. Calm yet clear. I lived.